Ride Report – Taunus Bikepacking No. 9

These are the daily ride reports from the 2026 edition of Taunus Bikepacking, written by Ross Brannigan. Ross is a Scottish author and journalist, previously the reporter at two Transcontinental races, the Trans Pyrenees Race, and the first edition of The Accursed Race.

Click on the links below to jump to the next story.

• Preview
• Day 0 – Hotting up
• Day 1 – Full steam ahead
• Day 2 – Horse power
• Day 3 – Playing the long game
• Day 4 – Catharsis and celebration
• Day 5 – The artist and the scientist
• Day 6 – Riders on the storm
• Day 7 – Out with a bang

All photos are courtesy of Nils Laengner and Bite of Me, our race photographers.

Day 7 – Out with a bang

The dust is settling after last night’s Taunus Bikepacking No. 9 finish line party, where riders, their families, volunteers and the crew came together to celebrate the end of another incredible edition of the event.

Throughout yesterday, riders continued to the finish in Niederjosbach after a 1,000km journey that will be defining for many, and unforgettable for all. It was an edition of comebacks, of heatwaves and thunderstorms, of ferries and knee-jarring climbs, of technological wizardry and semi-controlled chaos.

We were treated to the full cast of characters at this year’s event, with everyone overcoming their own setbacks and writing their own story into the Taunus annals. From Janek Schwenker (cap 9) realising a three-year dream by crossing the line first, to Stefanie Falz (cap 39) overcoming navigational breakdown to finish right on time for the party – every rider can be proud of what they accomplished.

And late last night, our Lanterne Rouge Beate Schimpf (cap 40) crossed the finish line. Of the 92 riders who started Taunus No. 9, 63 have made it to the finish line. 

Everything to gain

It was a halcyon scene at the finish line party: riders stuffed shoulder to shoulder in half-Lycra-half-casual clothes in the evening sun, beers held by hands lined with stark tan lines and a grill on the go. It was an evening for swapping stories, revelling in their accomplishment, and reflecting on the ride that’s been.

Organiser Jesko took the time to say a few words to the gaggle, praising each of them for how they’ve conducted themselves and what they’ve achieved.

“I love seeing how many different ways there are to ride this, this track”, he said. “There are at least 99 approaches. Whether you finished or not, you have all been incredibly inspiring and given me inspiration to take on into my own life.”

Stephen Haines (cap 91) has taken part in enough events to know what separates the good from the great. After finishing in 4 days, 3 hours and 16 minutes, he said at the finish:

“The atmosphere that Jesko and others have created here is really something special. It’s so relaxed. It’s great to see how the community has embraced it, too.

“If you’re on the fence about taking part, just do it. Do it, and you have a hell of a lot to gain and nothing to lose.”

Nina Kollrepp (cap 3) made a dramatic finish yesterday afternoon, being chased by a thunderstorm over the final part of the course. Taunus Bikepacking No. 9 marks her fourth finish at the event, and it was clear how much it meant, not just to her, but to all those who came to embrace her on the finish line. Her voice shook slightly, the final kilometres evidently providing time for reflection. 

“When I start this journey, every time I know that I will come back and will be a different person”, she said. “This time, I understand that you need to discover what you are good at, do that and nothing more.”

Sundown

While the conversation at the Eppstein Project mostly centred on what had been, many were already talking about what’s next. Some were discussing plans to apply again next year. Others were scheming on other events they wanted to try, maybe even pairing up with riders they’ve met at Taunus. 

It’s this organic nature to Taunus Bikepacking that has allowed it to flourish over the years. And with Taunus Bikepacking No. 10 on the horizon, Jesko reflected on this year’s event and those to come.

“I am relieved it went so well and delighted to see so many happy faces”, he said. “It’s really a mix of pride and sadness that it’s over. I think people will remember the ferry, the weather, and all the stories of the other riders. 

“Normally I don’t make plans for the next year right after the party, but maybe we do something special next year.”

With their own odyssey behind them, perhaps this quote from Homer’s The Odyssey is the perfect way to conclude Taunus Bikepacking No. 9:

“There is a time for many words, and there is also a time for sleep.”

Thanks for following the ride, for reading the reports, listening to the podcasts, and supporting our riders. It’s been an honour to share their stories.

Scratch report

No scratches today.

Day 6 – Riders on the storm

The final day of Taunus Bikepacking No. 9 has begun after a night when thunder rolled across the hills and valleys. Many riders took cover in Grillhütten, petrol stations, hotels and under bridges to avoid the downpours that swept the route, bringing some well-needed cooler temperatures. 

As the mercury soared yesterday afternoon, it was Daniela Herzig (cap 49) who rounded out the fastest women in this year’s event, finishing in 5 days, 4 hours and 49 minutes behind Erika Jaand (cap 54) and Annika Baumann (cap 64).

Banging out the Razorlight tunes to keep her spirits up through the searing heat, Daniela was excited to be done – but that the impending finish line was bring with it its own set of challenges.

“It’s good that it’s the last day”, she said. “But then your body starts to feel all the pain. If there was still one more day to go then I think it would actually be easier, but now just everything hurts.”

It was also a day for redemption. South African Sybrand Müller (cap 16) was back at this year’s event to make up for an unfortunate scratch six years ago. Back then, he crashed on the first day, his ride over in the form of a broken nose and a laceration to the knee. 

When we spoke to him, the only thing standing between him and getting his own back was Totenberg – Mountain of the Dead – an apt name for the final climb of this year’s event. It’s a small rise, but it catches out even the hardiest riders.

“I have so many emotions right now”, he said. “On Großer Feldberg there was this South African guy from Frankfurt with the South African flag out, cheering me on. That was so special and really emotional. But it will be so satisfying to finally cross the line.”

And cross it he did, after 5 days, 12 hours and 9 minutes.

Sign from the gods

At this stage, things are quickly starting to break down. Whether it’s physical pains, mental struggles, mechanical failures or kit malfunctions, everything feels the test of the terrain.

Mickey Wong (cap 96) entertained many of us with his ingenuity earlier in the event, having created what can only be described as a Frankenstein gearing set-up. His resourcefulness did not end there, however. On the second day, his front derailleur broke, setting him back almost four hours as he refused to let his creation end his ride. 

Finally solving it, he got on his way – but there was more to come.

“The bike is on a knife-edge. Also, my phone is completely dead”, the Dutchman said, rubbing a puffy eyelid courtesy of a mosquito bite. “So I am having to ask local people where the nearest shops are in my broken German. I am also stocking up on a lot of things, like water, juice. I also bought a bag of table sugar, and you can only buy those in 1kg bags.”

He rode on into the heat of the day, sporting splitting socks and a handlebar that looked like it had been attacked by a bear. He was mindful of the impending storm, aiming to push on in the heat before taking a rest as the storm raged.

Later, as the sky continued to bruise and the heavy booms drummed out across the sky, Antonia Fark (cap 36) was refusing to let her fourth puncture ruin her good spirits. Sat under a tree with her bike upturned and tubes scattered around her, she wrestled with her tyre to get it back on the rim. 

Many would have seen this – as well as crashing into a tree – as much of a sign from the gods as the thunder that it was time to throw in the towel. Not Antonia, though.

“I’m having fun”, she said earnestly. “It’s beautiful. Sometimes it’s emotional. I cried for about two hours on Tuesday. I called my dad and he was like, ‘You can do it. You’re doing amazing.’ And then my mum called and she was like, ‘Everyone believes in you at home and everyone wants you to finish.’ So now I need to do it.”

In Linter, Beate Schimpf (cap 40) was eating noodles while the lightning flashed outside. She is currently our Lanterne Rouge, after Holger Roth (cap 45) scratched yesterday. Even the rain wasn’t dampening her spirits, determined to finish on Sunday. She currently has just 200km between her and the finish in Niederjosbach.

Party time

Tonight, the riders of Taunus Bikepacking No. 9 – those who have finished and those who have scratched – will come together for the final time to enjoy the finish party. It’s a time for reflection, swapping tales of days on the road, and recognising what they’ve achieved.

On the track, there are riders still fighting the heat and hoping to arrive in time for the party. Right now, Stefanie Falz (cap 39) looks like she will arrive before the party ends at midnight. Having suffered technological issues in the last couple of days, her determination to continue makes her worthy of a spot at the bar, shoulder to shoulder with her fellow riders. 

Tomorrow, we will bring you our final report from Taunus Bikepacking No. 9, with all the latest from the finish line and the party.

Scratch report

Cap 14: Carsten Heinz. Reason: Knee pain.
Cap 55: Patrick Mortier. Reason: Neck pain.
Cap 74: Sophie Deidok. Reason: Heat exhaustion.
Cap: 45 Holger Roth. Reason: Fatigue.

Day 5 – The artist and the scientist

Stars winked down on Großer Feldberg last night as Erika Jaand (cap 54) made her way up the final climb of Taunus Bikepacking No. 9. 

Yesterday morning, she traded spontaneity for strategy, transforming from the bohemian free spirit we know into a rider of remarkable determination, intent on preserving her lead over second-fastest woman Annika Baumann (cap 64).

It looked touch-and-go for a time. As the weight of four days of riding weighed heavier on her shoulders and multiple punctures slowed her down, it looked like Erika might even surrender her position to the methodical Annika. 

But in the end, she wouldn’t capitulate. 

The Lithuanian – sporting a red Bell helmet and neckerchief – pushed her bike to the 880m summit of Großer Feldberg, after a day of incessant effort to become the first woman to its towers.

“I never expected this”, she said. “I came here to make videos, take pictures, get some experience and see the nature. But I never expected this … I’m proud of myself, you know?”

After making the final flowing descent to Niederjosbach, she wheeled into the finish camp after 4 days, 17 hours and 5 minutes.

“I need my bed”, she chuckled quietly at the finish, the effort of her 1,000km journey rendering her almost – but not quite completely – silent. 

Almost two hours later, Annika Baumann was riding along the ridge towards Großer Feldberg, the twinkling lights of Frankfurt marking the return to civilisation.

Reaching the summit at around 2am CEST, she gazed up at the stars and donned extra layers before descending to the finish. On her bike, the small stickers of planets reflected the lights of our headtorches.

“It feels great to be here, but I am looking forward to catching up on sleep soon”, she said. “And maybe not doing anything for a while – maybe a day or two.”

Arriving at the finish, she received her final brevet card stamp after 4 days, 19 hours and 5 minutes. 

Annika has shown steadfast resolve throughout the entire route, keeping a cool head even when the going got tough.

Keeping it cool

She isn’t the only one. Yesterday, temperatures started to soar, peaking at 32C in the middle of the day. These temperatures force riders to make decisions, like Sandra Makolt (cap 28) and Mickey Wong (cap 96), who chose to sleep in the shade of a chestnut tree during the hottest part of the afternoon. It’s decisions like this that can make or break your ride.

Sporting a white linen shirt as though he was on a cycle tour through the French vineyards, Tom Schumann (cap 8) was keeping it breezy, planning out his next swimming spots and in constant search of exciting downhill single-track. 

“I wouldn’t normally ride in a shirt”, he said. “I only brought it for fun, but it’s also really good in this sun. It also puts me in the holiday mood, which helps me to enjoy it a little more.”

Katharina Cichon (cap 15) made it to the summit of Mensfelder Kopf outside Limburg at around 1pm yesterday, panting her way to the summit and complaining about the heat. Nevertheless, it looks like she is on pace to reach the finish before the finisher’s party, a goal that eluded her at Taunus Bikepacking No. 8. 

“I want to ride until Limburg, and then I need alcohol-free beer, and a lot of cola, and anything to eat”, she said. “And then maybe sleep a bit.”

Behind her, her boyfriend Christian Engel (cap 63) was slogging his way up the lower part of the climb. Hot and sweating in the baking heat, he seemed nonetheless in high spirits – despite the racing dynamic playing out in his relationship.

“What do you think happens when you meet your partner on track, and one says to the other, ‘I feel like trash’?” he said, as though setting it up for a joke. “You’re used to them saying, ‘I’m so sorry. How can I help?’ But not this time. You don’t realise how crazy that dynamic in self-supported racing is until you experience it. This took some hours to settle in.”

With any luck, the two will both make it to the finisher’s party to finally share in each other’s trials and tribulations.

Last push

At camp, we await the arrival of Daniela Herzig (cap 49), our third-fastest woman on the course. She is expected to reach the finish in the coming hours. 

Most of the riders are now through CP3. Holger Roth (cap 45) is currently the only rider still to receive their third brevet card stamp, making him our current Lanterne Rouge. All riders who reach the finish line receive a finishing time, but many will be pushing hard through today and tomorrow to make it in time for the finisher’s party at 6pm tomorrow. As the Eppstein Project continues to fill with riders, the applause for those riding into the finish will only get louder.

All those on the course have another day of baking hot weather to contend with before they can finally slump into a sun lounger, enjoy a cold drink, and bask in the glory of completing their own odyssey through the Taunus.

Scratch report

• Cap 30: Daniel Brink. Reason: Unable to eat.
  

Day 4 – Catharsis and celebration

Taunus Bikepacking No. 9 has its first finishers as Janek Schwenker (cap 9), Simon Casanova (cap 65) and Julian Loße (cap 68) returned to Niederjosbach yesterday afternoon.

Janek completed his 1,000km odyssey through the Taunus hills after 3 days, 5 hours and 2 minutes of riding, completing a three-year dream. 

Cheered to the finish by his dad and sister, Janek swung his leg over his saddle, peeled off his jersey and sat in the grass, where his dog proceeded to lick the sweat from his face.

“Since I started Taunus Bikepacking for the first time, I knew this was possible”, he said. “But to do it that fast and be the first man back? That’s crazy.”

The euphoria was already setting in as he made his way up a sun-drenched Großer Feldberg, which stands as the final major climb on the route. Whooping with joy and almost lost for words, it was clear how much this moment meant to him after his scratch last year. 

“On the first day you dream about the finish line. And since the halfway point you start counting down the mini steps to the finish. Suddenly it’s just five more hours, then three, then just Feldberg. I couldn’t imagine a better outcome and better days.”

Five hours later, Julian Loße crossed the line, followed minutes later by Simon Casanova. Throughout yesterday, Julian had put time into Simon, but when they reached Großer Feldberg Simon was closing in, pounding the pedals and growling at the effort.

But thanks to the staggered start, it was in fact Simon who claimed second spot – just one minute separating the two. Given he’s ridden two-thirds of the route with a broken spoke, it’s a result he can be doubly proud of. 

Dark horse

With the men’s podium rounded out, all eyes were on the exciting overnight developments in the women’s field. Following Beatrice Toffoletto’s (cap 84) scratch yesterday, Annika Baumann (cap 64) claimed top spot. But that wasn’t the end. 

The plucky Erika Jaand (cap 54), revealing herself to be a dark horse, used the cover of darkness to climb through the field to now sit as the fastest woman on the course. 

Upon first inspection, she’s seemingly held her ride together on little more than positive vibes, boundless energy and an insatiable need for coffee. But look deeper, and there’s a steely determination inside. We found her pushing her bike up a steep hill through Wetzlar, she had a mischievous smile and a fire in her eyes. 

“I’m tired, but now I am going to go as fast as I can”, she said. “I want to try to race. I’ve never done it before! I know Annika is way faster than me, so I need to go as fast as I can.”

Her focus now is on making one big push to the finish line, driven by her desire to sleep in her own bed and, probably, another coffee. 

Meanwhile, Annika remains stoic in her approach. Unflappable except when faced with heights like those found at CP2, she was completely focused on her own ride, with a plan to take a few naps before the finish. 

“I just want to get to the finish. I don’t want to look at the tracker because it just puts pressure on me”, she said. 

A learning curve

A journey as long as Taunus Bikepacking allows for the processing of many emotions. Hours upon hours spent in quiet solitude, allowing the mind to wander in an unending rising and falling. For some, it can be a cathartic experience, giving space for reflection and learning.

With the bells ringing in a new dawn yesterday, Daniele Bifulco (cap 82) was introspective, having faced many challenges and changes over the last few years.

“I feel great. I had a good cry”, he said. “I let out a lot of emotions. The last five years have been a lot: moving to a new country, learning a new language. It was never going to be easy. I’m not 20-years-old anymore so it’s harder. But I am so grateful to be here. It’s amazing.”

These moments of self-discovery are there for any who choose to take on a challenge like Taunus. Kevin Kaltenhofer (cap 52) felt this event has taught him so many things about himself, both mental and physical. 

With a whiff of lavender about him thanks to the flowers hanging from his handlebars (to “mask the smell”) he explained how he learns something every day. 

“Finding the right food was the main learning”, he said. “Eating protein at night, sleeping one more hour. Four hours just isn’t enough for me. I felt like I was flying yesterday. I am learning so much every day about myself.”

Most of the field is now through CP3, following the Lahn to the north-eastern corner of the route before turning south and working their meandering way south. There are certain to be plenty more lessons to be learned before they reach the finish at Niederjosbach.

Scratch report

• Cap 44: Ananda Hahl. Reason: Fatigue.
• Cap 81: Tommy Pöche. Reason: Knee pain. 
• Cap 37: Kilian Vitt. Reason: Swollen ankle and knee. 
• Cap 84: Beatrice Toffoletto. Reason: Neck pain. 
• Cap 99: Alexander Höhne. Reason: Fatigue. 
• Cap 78: Friedrun Otto. Reason: Out of time.
• Cap 95: Moritz Teupke. Reason: Broken finger.

Day 3 – Playing the long game

The proud bells of Limburg Cathedral rang in the morning of the fourth day as bright sun spread across its ochre facade and the Fachwerk buildings of Limburg an der Lahn. 

As it made its steady, unwavering chime over the Lahn river, Janek Schwenker (cap 9) answered in kind by continuing his methodical effort across the second half of the course. Yesterday, he was the first to climb the metal steps to stamp his brevet card for the third time at Hohe Lay. 

Rising like an eyrie, this rock face breaks above the trees, providing another 360-degree perspective over the Taunus. Like all the checkpoints at Taunus Bikepacking, it’s a spot few cyclists might visit on any normal ride, providing near endless opportunities for discovery. 

Janek is laser-focused on his own ride, apparently able to tune out the noise of other riders. Speaking to us at CP3, he revealed his marginal gains approach to his ride.

“I don’t want to waste time”, he said. “Julian is not far behind me, so every minute I can gain is good because I can sleep longer.”

Sure enough, after leapfrogging each other yesterday morning, the elastic snapped and Janek left Julian Loße (cap 68) behind. With a commanding lead, Janek took the chance to sleep for another four hours before starting the final push towards the finish. 

While Janek has maintained a consistent four hours of sleep each night, Julian had slept just 30 minutes on a park bench between the start and CP3. This morning, Julian and Simon Casanova (cap 65) are duking it out for second spot. 

This too shall pass

Meanwhile, Beatrice Toffoletto (cap 84) is attempting to save her ride. After arriving at CP2, Beatrice started to complain of neck pain, struggling to pull the brakes. Instead of pushing on, she played the tactical move by stopping yesterday afternoon at a hotel to relax the muscles. 

After reclaiming her spot as fastest woman from Annika Baumann (cap 64) overnight, she was forced to stop again. Speaking to her in a small car park behind a physiotherapist practice, it was clear her ride might soon be over – but she isn’t giving up easily.

“I don’t think I can ride anymore”, she said tearfully. “Yesterday, I took a hotel, had a shower, slept for a few hours. I also got some heat patches and did mobility exercises for my neck and back. 

“I wanted to take my time and recover. My mind and my legs are fine, so I want to keep going. But I might have to accept that I might only manage another 50km. I might try to sleep again, but then might go back to the Eppstein Project.”

Whilst others might have capitulated, Beatrice is showing near-unparalleled perseverance and problem-solving to keep moving forward. Managing discomfort and allowing the peaks and troughs of a day in the saddle to pass like the hills and valleys of the route is part of any ultra challenge. 

Annika Baumann also understands this. 

“Every 10 minutes it’s something else”, she said serenely on the long climb out of Hahnstätten. “I am trying to avoid sleeping too much so the body doesn’t completely shut down, but the pains pass and move. It’s part of the process.”

Sandra Makolt (cap 28) almost scratched on the first day after a breakdown – but turned things around and is still beaming and brimming with zeal.

“I crashed into a rose bush and also my period started. I would have scratched but another rider convinced me to keep riding”, she said. “Now we are texting and I’m like, ‘I’m going to catch you today!’”

A calculated approach

The unmistakable silhouette of Großer Feldberg has taunted the riders for much of the route, its brutalist spires rising incongruously from the forest. As is the fickle nature of the Taunus route, signposts tease riders as they mark towns and hills just a few kilometres away, when in reality they have dozens – sometimes hundreds – to ride before they get there. 

Großer Feldberg is synonymous with Taunus Bikepacking. It’s featured in every edition, and even forms the logo. It’s a peak with history, playing host to scientific experiments down the ages, from 18th century triangulation to the work of students at local universities today. It even forms part of the ancient Roman Limes. 

After his own calculated journey through the Taunus, Janek looks set to be first to the finish line later today. But the Taunus may still have a surprise lurking in its shadowy forests. 

Scratch report

• Cap 29: Arne Schippers. Reason: Illness.
• Cap 25: Alex Dorner. Reason: Hand pain.
• Cap 79: Lauri Peltonen. Reason: Fatigue.
• Cap 85: Jakob Dieckmann. Reason: Knee pain.
• Cap 24: Hans Lanser. Reason: Knee pain.
• Cap 11: Alexander Gleiß. Reason: Achilles inflammation.
• Cap 57: Alexandre Schmitz. Reason: Out of time.
• Cap 48: Johannes Dossler. Reason: Family matters.
• Cap 77: Gjildert van Der Velden. Reason: Broken chain.

Day 2 – Horse power

As the sun set on the second day of Taunus Bikepacking No. 9, an exhausted Janek Schwenker (cap 9) scaled the infamous 178 steps to the top of Pferdskopf to receive his second brevet card stamp.

Rubbing the sweat out of his eyes, Janek stood barefooted looking across the treetops over the entirety of the Taunus region. Behind him, Großer Feldberg, the final climb of the route, looked just a stone’s throw away. Thanks to the capricious nature of this route, however, he’ll have to ride another 500km before he reaches it.

“I’m exhausted”, he said. “The last two hours were hard. I knew it would be tough. In the last 100km, I knew there were some steep climbs from previous years. But they were so hard. It’s a lot of controlled, all-out efforts.”

For much of yesterday, Janek enjoyed a superior position at the head of the pack. But like the lungs of an accordion, the time gaps between the front riders continue to expand and contract. Last night, Julian Loße (cap 68) leapfrogged ahead, seemingly opting to push through much of the night while Janek slept for nearly four hours. It wasn’t long before Janek reclaimed the lead, as the two now make their way through the 200km and 3400m of climbing to CP3. 

Behind them, I caught up with Beatrice Toffoletto (cap 84) and her bobbing headlamp weaving through a deserted golf course. “Trash music” emanated from her pocket, which she plays to “help keep the animals away.” After riding alongside Jerry Cornelisse (cap 72) for much of the early stages of the route, she was on her own, and seemingly enjoying her own company.

“It’s been a really calm day”, she said. “I’ve struggled with the weather. It’s sometimes very cold. I keep taking my jacket off and back off again. It’s also been a very zen day, but I’ve found it hard to find food.”

Beatrice seems to be following an aggressive sleeping strategy, sleeping just a couple of hours each night. She appears determined to remain the fastest woman on the course, but said that she’d stopped watching the tracker to remain focused on her own ride. 

Shifting strategies

Earlier yesterday, all the attention was on the ferry crossing over the Rhein to CP1. Thirteen riders shivered and stuffed their hands into their armpits on the first ferry of the day as mist rose from the lethargic Rhein river.

Several riders managed to find hotels in the ferry town of Lorch beforehand, but several opted for freezing cold bivvy spots in local parks. Others chose to kip further away, before finishing the final razor-like kilometres to the ferry before the sun showed its face.

Stephen Haines (cap 91), was one of the last riders to arrive at the ferry terminal, having ridden since the small hours to reach the first crossing on time.

“I cut it pretty fine. There were moments this morning where I was thinking, ‘Let’s just go to the bakery and get a coffee’. I am almost sad to have made it! ”, he laughed. “It wasn’t a straightforward ride here this morning. It just goes up and down.”

Cutting it even closer was Lithuanian Erika Jaand (cap 54), skidding to a halt just before the 9am ferry drew up its ramp.

“I’m happy! I don’t need to wait so long for coffee now!” she said, possessing seemingly boundless energy despite her caffeine depletion. Erika is another rider opting for less sleep, fueled by an ambition to enjoy quiet roads and trails – and simply because she loves riding all the time. With no ferry schedule to worry about now, she hopes to sleep indoors today to recharge both herself and her electronics.

The ferry has created a natural punctuation mark in the route, forcing riders throughout the entire field to consider their approach to it, not just the ones at the front. This, organiser Jesko explained, was exactly the plan all along.

Carsten Heinz (cap 14) was progressing through the dog-leg away from the Rhein before making the hairpin turn back towards it. He was focused on making the two-way crossing before the final ferry at 8pm. He has one eye on the hot weather coming later in the week, forcing him to consider nocturnal strategies.

“I hate the heat. I can’t cycle when it’s hot”, he said. “Later in the week I am going to move to the night shift, take a long break at lunch and then ride through the night.”

Living the dream

Before a single pedal stroke has turned at Taunus Bikepacking, personal journeys have been unfolding that have led riders to this moment. Beate Schimpf (cap 40) was another rider determined to reach the ferry yesterday evening. 

Her road to Taunus Bikepacking has been a bumpy one. Like many of us, she’s spent years dedicating herself to work and family, but when cancer reared its head her world view shifted towards making more time for herself. When I caught her climbing through sunlit vineyards, she was facing adversity but determined on fulfilling a three-year-old dream to complete Taunus Bikepacking.

“I hardly slept last night, and it’s getting hot now. So today is very difficult for me”, she said. “But I just take it as it comes. I love and enjoy every moment. I am so thankful that I am able to experience this and a body that enables me to do this. I have immense gratitude.”

Those riders leaving CP1 behind and heading towards the inner Taunus will leave the Rhein behind and witness a character change in the route. Instead of precipitous climbs plunging back to the river, they will weave through wide wheat fields nodding in the wind, with rolling hills connected by yet more double-digit ramps.

There are still many more stories to unfold.

Scratch report

• Cap 2: Kristian Buljan. Reason: Lingering cold. 
• Cap 90: Steffen Halling. Reason: Sore hands. 
• Cap 35: Bernadette Immel. Reason: Multiple crashes. 
• Cap 26: Paul Ullmann. Reason: Fatigue. 
  

Day 1 – Full steam ahead

Taunus Bikepacking No. 9 is officially underway. Our cast of characters is slowly reordering itself as they settle into their own paces over the gruelling terrain towards the ferry crossing at Lorch. 

Setting off in one-minute intervals yesterday morning, they started in surprisingly chilly conditions, which would take until the early afternoon to burn off.

They were immediately thrust into their first challenges, with a steep first climb heading north before doubling back and tackling a bone-shaking descent into Eppstein. From there, they set into the rhythm – or lack thereof – of the route, tackling double-digit gradients, smooth gravel, rutted single-track, and quiet lanes through historic towns and lush woodlands.

An early group of leaders started to form by last night, composed of Janek Schwenker (cap 9), Kristian Buljan (cap 2) and Moritz Gemmerich (cap 76). By this morning, Janek and Kristian had reached the ferry town of Lorch, joined by Julian Loße (cap 68), Jan Rohrberg (cap 67), Daniele Bifulco (cap 82), Stephen Haines (91), Simon Casanova (cap 65), Paul Ullmann (cap 26), Timo Rokitte (cap 89), Ulf Bannick (cap 41), Jonas Weisbach (75), Niels Ihrman (66), Max Fetzer (12), and Graham Suffield (cap 83). Fastest woman on the course, Beatrice Toffoletto (cap 84) looks set to catch a ferry later this morning.

Unfortunately, Moritz had to scratch in the night due to stomach problems. 

Behind them, mini packs of riders formed as they entered the first night. Many riders tackling the final 50km to the ferry town – but these are not easy kilometers. Four punchy climbs punctuate the route between Rüdesheim and Lorch, clocking 1,400m of elevation gain. On already tired legs, perhaps such a punchy stretch will have caused some to re-evaluate their ambitions for day one.

Early mistakes

As the golden sunset started to fall on the first day and the swallows skimmed the skies in search of dinner, I had a chance to catch the then-front three. Moritz was first to arrive, climbing the loose gravel track that meandered its way through regimented vineyards to Niederwalddenkmal. But even when riding at the front, you can make mistakes. Moritz, for instance, accidentally booked a hotel in Lorsch near Mannheim – about 100km south of Taunus. 

Meanwhile, Janek – who appeared energetic after wolfing a pizza down in a park in Rüdesheim – admitted he had perhaps set out a little too hard.

“I had a little bit of a half bonk earlier in the day”, he said. “Now I am back on a good level. I stopped to have a pizza in Rüdesheim because there’s no food in Lorch in the evening.”

Setting off at a good rhythm is a challenge for all riders, especially with the excitement and nervous energy that comes from starting such a big challenge.

Spinning steadily up a 20% gradient to the castle of Burg Hohenstein, Kevin Kaltenhofer (cap 52) said his stomach had felt like “a black hole” earlier in the day.

“I couldn’t eat very well for the first hours. I had a lot of fun on the single-track and the route, but the stomach issues were not great. The event has now started, so I can let my mind go free. Eating some food has also helped.”

Surprise successes

For others their race started better than expected. Annika Maul (cap 47) and Christian Engel (cap 63) were found together at Burg Hohenstein. Both were surpriused at their performances on the first day, cruising through their targeted 150km daily target.

Sometimes, it isn’t just the physical preparation ahead of a race like Taunus that takes up a lot of time; it can also be technology.

Mickey Wong (cap 96) is the mad scientist of this year’s Taunus Bikepacking. As an engineer from the Netherlands, Mickey loves tinkering with his set-up, and this year his gearing solution is drawing a lot of curious glances. Typically gearing is limited by the space between the derailleur and the cassette, but Mickey has installed a toptube-mounted lever that allows him to extend the range of his gears. This allows him to have mountain bike-level gearing for the climbs and road gearing for the flats and descents.

“I cannot believe this thing works!” he said, brimming with enthusiasm despite the bandage around his forearm. “I am having an absolute blast. I cannot describe it. Going up a hill at 35/51 is a dream, and then going downhill 50/11 is incredible. It was a week of prototyping and testing before Taunus, so it was the most stressful week of my life.

But for others, the surprises come not from within, but externally. Annika Baumann (cap 64) has completed several ultra-cycling events, but said the community spirit and support on route has been unparalleled.

“So many people are so happy and friendly here”, she said. “They’re calling your name and cheering you on. These are people you’ve never met but they are all so welcoming.”

The Rhine and the Romans

The local people and the area are not simply a backdrop to Taunus Bikepacking. They are the lifeblood of the entire event, as well as dictating the rhythm of the route. As riders make their way west, they come closer to the Rhein, a vital European artery that starts its own 1,000km-plus journey in the Swiss Alps.

By the time it reaches Taunus, it’s a wide, meandering river that has taken people and goods from place to place for millennia. It created a natural frontier for the Romans before they pushed north before ultimately drawing a line through the Taunus: the Limes Germanicus, or Germanic Frontier. 

This ancient barrier used to be lined with walls and towers to protect the Roman Empire from Celtic tribes. Today, just a few ruins remain; the final fingerprints of a once-great civilisation. It’s a line riders will cross again and again as they snake through these hills. 

The first riders will soon reach CP1, while others will be making their own goals for today as we enter the second day of riding.

Day 0 – Hotting up

The festival atmosphere of the Taunus Bikepacking is in full swing, as nearly 100 riders pitch their tents, don their caps, and prepare to set-off from Niederjosbach on Sunday. It’s a day for meeting old friends and making new ones before their shared 1,000km journey through this hidden German gem.

Early in the morning, the sweet smell of dew drying in the bright sun gave those who stayed on Friday night a hint of what is to come. For several days, rain has swept across western Germany, meaning many of the gravel tracks are currently wet, muddy, and rutted.

But with the mercury set to hit at least 30ºC during next week, many will be hoping the trails dry out to allow for some smoother riding on a route that is more than 50% off-road. With such high temperatures, though, will they simply be trading one evil for another?

These conditions, plus the mixed-surface route, have resulted in a range of bike choices. The majority have opted for drop-bar gravel bikes with at least 38mm of rubber. Others have gone for a blended approach, with flat-bar mountain bikes and rigid forks, while others are going all in on comfort with front – and even rear – suspension.

There’s one thing uniting them all: low gear ratios to tackle the brutal climbs to come.

Setting sail

From 8am CEST on Sunday, riders will depart in one-minute intervals, starting with cap number 99 and finishing with number one. Between the start and CP1 lie 266km and almost 6,000m of elevation gain. And with a ferry that only runs between 6am and 8pm just 7km from CP1, how riders tackle this first section might set the tone for their entire journey.

“If you just look at the numbers, it looks easier than it is”, said Jesko. “Some riders might be tempted to push for the last ferry. Others will have to think whether they want to push harder to get more rest Sunday night, or maybe they take it easier and time it well for the first ferry on Monday.”

Speaking to some of the riders expected to be back earliest to the finish line, however, none have admitted to ambitions of reaching the ferry on Sunday evening. Stephen Haines (cap 91) is a seasoned ultra-distance cyclist, with races like Transcontinental, Pan Celtic and Atlas Mountain Race already under his belt. 

Initially coy about his strategy, he said it’s unlikely he’ll reach Lorch in time for the final Sunday crossing. 

“That’s beyond my capabilities”, he laughed. “The plan is to get as far as possible and not burn too many matches. Fair play to anyone who can give it a shot!”

Five-time Taunus Bikepacking finisher, Kristian Buljan (cap 2), is back this year with his lightest set-up yet, but he too aims to sleep before the ferry. But that’s all the sleep he’s getting, aiming to complete the rest of the route in one push, potentially to better his second-place finish last year.

Meanwhile, Beatrice Toffoletto (cap 84) – fresh off a 16-hour bus journey from Italy – said her plan “is not to have a plan”. Whereupon she dangled the tantalising prospect of both a potentially conservative or potentially aggressive strategy. 

“I do not want to push too hard on the first day. I don’t think I will catch the last ferry, so I want to arrive a little early to have a proper rest. Maybe I will try to catch the ferry, but I don’t want to push too hard. Maybe a long sleep will help recharge for the next days.”

All’s fair in love and cycling

For the majority of riders, however, they will be aiming for late Monday ferries, taking a cautious approach to a route that deserves respect. 

Christian Engel (cap 63) is one such person. He entered Taunus Bikepacking last year but didn’t get a spot, instead volunteering which earned him a start at Taunus No9. This year, he’ll be lining up alongside his girlfriend Katharina Cichon (cap 15) – a Taunus finisher. “Volunteering was a great experience because you get the first feeling. You’re not jumping into cold water”, Christian said.

“My goal is simply to survive and finish. There’s still the dream to get here before the finisher party, but I don’t want to put too much pressure on myself. Riding 150km per day would be good for me.”

Katharina had a great ride in 2025, but didn’t arrive in time for the finisher party. Perhaps this year will be her year. Unlike some events, Taunus does not prevent riders from enjoying the route together, so long as they stick to the rules of self-sufficiency. 

Does that mean Christian and Katharina will team up to achieve their shared goal to reach the finisher party?

“We had a long discussion about it”, Christian said. “A few months ago we were pretty certain we will not race together. 

“But now it’s me!” he laughed. “It’s me saying, ‘I’m going to miss you. Maybe we should ride together.’ And Katharina is saying, ‘No!’ But I think it is a good experience to feel every high and low of the event alone. Maybe we’ll meet on the track.”

Taunus beckons

Throughout the day, more and more tents have lined the terraces of the steep campsite, their owner’s bikes haphazardly lying around them. The Eppstein Project has hosted the start and finish of Taunus Bikepacking for many years now, making it a cornerstone of the event and part of Jesko’s wider ambition to root Taunus Bikepacking in the local community.

The owners, Dani and Ralf, have made it their ambition to create a place where people and nature can meet, while also giving space for people to explore the Taunus region by foot or by bike.

“It’s a huge honor for us, and we are incredibly proud to host the Taunus Bikepacking event for another year,” said Dani. “Having the riders use our place as their official basecamp – starting their journey here and finishing it right here – is amazing.”

During the day, riders mingle around the registration tent before making their way to the top of the hill to enjoy a drink in the beer garden, all while birdsong rings from the innumerable trees nearby. 

Over the hill, Taunus proper awaits. On the edges, it looks bucolic, with rolling forested hills punctuated by little villages nestled in their corners. But the deeper you go, the more Taunus draws you in, and the wilder it gets. 

Tomorrow, riders will get their first taste of the wild journey that awaits them.

Preview

This Sunday, almost 100 riders will be lining up for the ninth edition of Taunus Bikepacking. For almost a decade, riders have been drawn to the unique community spirit and hidden gems of the Taunus region and this 1,000km route. Snaking its way through the hills and forests north of Frankfurt, Germany, the route takes in over 20,000m of elevation change between the start and finish point of Niederjosbach.

This year, the route features three unmanned checkpoints and takes in several locations riders will know from previous editions, such as the Pferdskopf watch tower and the route’s high point – Großer Feldberg. However, the twist in this year’s route is the inclusion of a ferry in the first 300km, which is sure to reveal some intriguing strategies early on.

Taunus Bikepacking is masterminded by Jesko von Werthern, with the aim of showing people the adventures you can have on your doorstep.

“I grew up near Taunus and rode these hills as part of my training”, he says. “A friend convinced me to set up a Facebook event. You had to know about it to join in. We had about 20 people on that first year – and it’s grown from there.”

Over the years, Jesko has become a regular face in the bikepacking community, participating in multiple ultra-distance races. The difference at his own event, however, is it isn’t a race. “It’s an adventure”, Jesko says with a wry smile. “You don’t need to call it a race for it to be a race. People love to race each other and test themselves, but it’s an adventure for people to experience in their way.”

That adventure is made all the more thrilling by the self-supported nature of the event, with riders relying on their own ingenuity and preparation to get them to the finish line. At Taunus, the local community has become a core part of the event’s spirit, with some setting up food stands and shops even changing opening hours especially for weary cyclists.

“In some races, I was sad to have to turn away the kindness of strangers,” Jesko explained. “At Taunus, the community really wanted to support the event. The area doesn’t get a lot of tourism, so when locals started noticing some people with funny hats cycling through every June, they welcomed it. It’s become a unique feature of Taunus and we allow that kind of support if it’s available to every rider.”

Warrior spirits

It’d be easy for riders to be lulled into a false sense of security by home baking and motivational banners. Because just when you let your guard down – Taunus bites back.

With barely a flat kilometer across the entire route, riders will be forced out of the saddle and out of their rhythm. As it weaves its way through forests and hills, the route gobbles up riders in a labyrinth of twists and turns, never retracing its path and leaving even the most local of riders lost in their own back garden.

It’s a region steeped in history, with ancient Roman forts marking the extent of the empire before it gave way to the “barbarians” of the north. Old tales still tell of restless Celtic and Roman warriors dwelling in the mountains, which combined with the wildlife will be enough to ensure even the boldest of riders sleep with one eye open.

After scratching due to a failed Di2 battery last year, Janek Schwenker (cap 9) is back this year, hoping to put to rest the ghosts of past misfortune. With a history of strong performances at Taunus, Janek says the lure of adventure and challenging himself is what keeps bringing him back, as well as the positive vibe created by the riders and the community.

“The great thing about Taunus is that everyone is there for his or her own challenge”, he says. “I am very competitive with myself and want to find my new limit. Also, I love seeing the new aspects of the route and even people living here will find somewhere new. It blows my mind.”

It’s not just locals seeking new wonders and challenges at Taunus. Beatrice Toffoletto (cap 84) from Veneto, Italy, is a recent convert to ultra-cycling, having spent several years as a competitive triathlete. Drawn by the spirit of adventure and connection with nature, Beatrice started out gravel cycling before embracing bikepacking races last year.

“I was looking for something less structured and more free”, she explains. “These experiences also teach you something much more than cycling. They show you how adaptable you can be, how to solve problems, and how to keep moving forward.”

Taunus draws many first-time ultra cyclists, as well as an increasingly diverse range of riders. This year, the event will see a record 20 female riders on the start line, as well as riders ranging from 19 to 69 years old. With a fairly open field at this year’s event, the race to be the first one back to Niederjosbach looks set to be a thrilling one.

A personal journey

Every rider at Taunus has faced their own journey to the start line. Nina Kollrepp’s (cap 3) name has become synonymous with Taunus Bikepacking in recent years. In 2022, her husband Thomas signed up to ride Taunus No5 on his fat bike, making Nina wonder if he had gone “completely mad”.

Nevertheless, after some cajoling from Thomas and Jesko, she also signed up, riding just 300km in training and joining her husband at the start line. It took them nine days to finish – well after the finisher party – but full of pride at reaching it. Nina was hooked, and the pair finished in time for the party at Taunus No6.

Between Taunus No6 and No7, Thomas tragically lost his life. Nina returned to Taunus as a race reporter at No7, with the aim of “finding her own way of living”.

“Being part of the Taunus will definitely change your life”, she says. “It’s just a week, but when you are alone on your bike, a day of bikepacking feels like one week of normal life. If you’ve never done it before, it’s hard to understand, but it moves you.”

Today, Nina’s house has become a focal point in its own right along the route. Every rider is welcome to experience the ultimate “trail magic”, with hot showers and food.

“Opening my house to the riders feels so natural”, she explains. “The real praise goes to my amazing [volunteers who] make this trail magic possible while I am on the road. Maybe the magic of it is less physical and more someone there ready to listen to you with all the weight on your shoulders.”

Nina hopes her story will encourage people to ask the men in their life how they truly are, because “maybe you will save a life”.

She adds: “If they don’t answer, leave them alone for a time and ask them again and, if they tell you about bad feelings, let them speak about it. You do not need to find a solution for them, but listen.”

On Sunday, the personal journey of nearly 100 riders through the Taunus mountains will begin, with all the highs and lows – both physical and mental – along the way. For them, Nina has one final piece of advice as a veteran of the event:

“You will start a journey where you will grow. And the moment where everything feels hopeless, and your body hurts in places you could never imagine, take a deep breath – and move on. That’s when you will grow.”