These are the daily ride reports from No. 6 (2023).
Preview: Taunus Bikepacking No. 6
This coming weekend, the sixth edition of Taunus Bikepacking kicks off in Germany. Having been around for as long as 2018, this event has still managed to stay somewhat under the radar. That’s on purpose – much of what makes this self-supported adventure so special has to do with its small scale. The 1,000 kilometer mixed-surface route is the brainchild of Jesko von Werthern, veteran of races such as the Transcontinental Race, TransAtlantic Way, Race through Poland, to name just a few. With the help of only a few close friends and family, the event has managed to grow a loyal and close-knit community of veterans that keep coming back for more year after year.
Don’t be mistaken by the small scale, “Jesko’s rollercoaster”, as last year’s fastest finisher Peter Batt lovingly coined it, is actually very challenging. The course, which Jesko has been continuously scouting and improving for seven years, is definitely not a walk in the park or a sprint. About 20,000 meters of climbing mean that it’s basically never flat. The Taunus hills are not high mountains, but the relentless up and down is more than enough to wear bikes and riders out.
Graphic by Stephan van Raay
Blown up knees and inflamed achilles tendons are testament to those who underestimated these hills before. The ride is also infamous for its annual heat waves – temperatures exceeding 35 degrees celsius are not unheard of. It has been an unusual cold and wet spring across Germany, but the temperatures are now rising by the day as we count down the days to the start.
Taunus is a relatively small region in the middle of Germany, full of remote forests, ancient castles and dreamy little villages. To cram a route of this length between the rivers of Main, Rhine, Nidda and Lahn means you get a track that looks like a plate of spaghetti. Over a wild mix of gravel roads, asphalt lanes, cobblestone alleys and forest trails, riders get treated to a tour of this region’s history. Remains of the Roman empire’s last frontier, medieval towns, deserted army depots, defunct slate mines – you name it. Scenic viewpoints and plenty of wildlife are sure to take the rider’s minds off the pain.
We’re excited to give you daily updates on the biggest field of riders to brave Taunus Bikepacking yet, so keep checking in to see what unfolds over the coming week. The ride starts at 8 am CET on Sunday morning June 11. To get you in the mood, check out last year’s commentary here.
Photos by Nils Laengner
Riders to watch
With 95 registered riders from 11 different nations, this is the biggest field on the start line of Taunus Bikepacking yet. So which riders should you keep an eye on? Every single one, of course. However, we know a bit more about certain riders than others.
First things first, the cap numbers. These are not allocated randomly. While classic races traditionally reward previous winners with number 1, Taunus Bikepacking does this a little bit different. It’s not the fastest returning rider who gets number 1, it’s the rider with the most experience on the track, namely the one who has got the most starts and finishes under his or her belt. There are no categories either, everybody is equal. More than a third of the field consists of veterans – 32 are back for more. So every rider with a number lower than 33 has been on that start line before. It’s a bit like an annual family reunion.
Cap 1 Ken Kölzer has started every single edition of this ride, which is an impressive feat in itself. Out of his five starts, Ken has managed to finish four. There is one man that is on his heels and that is Fabian Köhler, cap 2. Fabian also recorded four finishes, but he has missed out to start one edition, which makes the difference here. So if Fabian finishes and Ken doesn’t, the prestigious number will switch heads next year. That should be enough to keep both of them going. Ken has barely ridden his bike this year, but experience clearly pays off – he didn’t train last year either and still managed to finish.
Daniel Schleh #3 has three finishes, Olaf Flechtner #4 three starts, two finishes. You get the idea.
Georg Stiebeling #5 was the second fastest rider last year. Georg is an accomplished ultra runner and is known to ride 1,000 kilometres non-stop on Zwift when he feels like. Just ask his neighbours. The guy just doesn’t like stopping and we would be surprised if he takes many breaks this time around.
#7 Kristian Buljan had a high-speed crash with a deer last year, taking him out of contention, but turning him into a valued crew member for the remainder of the week. Kristian was riding at the pointy end when the accident occurred, so he is surely aiming to do the same again. Fingers crossed for some better luck this year.
#8 Dirk Wendt finished the very first edition of Taunus Bikepacking back in 2018. We wonder how much he will still recognize. Probably not much, because the route was heavily changed over the years.
#11 Bernd Schall has been an avid supporter since year one. Bernd went from fan to dotwatcher to finisher to volunteer and is now back to ride. He knows the event inside out and is unrivalled in his knowledge of bivy spots. Quote: “I’ve slept in that hedge!”
#12 Patrick Das certainly loves the Taunus hills. After his strong ride last year, he was seen several times at the base camp in Eppstein and out on the Taunus Teaser course with friends.
Riders with a number higher than 32 are rookies to Taunus Bikepacking, which of course doesn’t mean they don’t have bikepacking experience. There are some very accomplished riders and, as always, some dark horses.
Jeremy Harris took on the gruelling Atlas Mountain Race and knows the area very well, as he regularly goes on long training rides through the Taunus hills.
Isabel Riffel, Katharina Nippgen and Jennifer Dinnebier have all been part of the komoot x TWAR women’s weekender on the Taunus Teaser course last summer. Taunus Teaser is a shorter version of the route that can be ridden all year. They definitely have a good idea of what’s in store.
This might be Mareike Sanner’s first bikepacking event, but she certainly has the right mindset and is well prepared, which will surely benefit her.
Anne De Smet and Stefan Maertens from Belgium are no strangers to long distance events. They have just recently finished the infamously hilly Mittelgebirge Classique. Anne was struggling with achilles heel pain for the last few weeks as a result, but prioritised recovery and hopefully is fit enough to ride. Stefan is not only a Tour Divide, Hope 1000 and TCR finisher, but also the track builder of Across-the-3, so he sure loves a hard course with plenty of steep hills.
Marcello Pabst and Dennis Krüger are both local ride guides. Marcello’s recent training rides include a casual 500 kilometer spin to the Dutch coast.
Ross Anderson is another former volunteer switching sides to become a rider.
Joris Pesch finished 6th in last year’s Seven Serpents event, which certainly means he is not one to hang around long either.
Julian Klose looks back on solid performances in TCR and the Race through Poland. He is also qualified for this year’s Paris-Brest-Paris.
Antti Lihavainen is a randonneur from Finland. While most other riders are still at home, finetuning their setups or debating which kit to take, Antti has already been on his way to the start line for a while. He decided to ride most of the way from Finland to Taunus by bike and is currently eating and pedalling his way through Eastern Europe. He should be properly warmed up by Sunday.
There’s many other riders worth mentioning, but there’s only so much space in this preview. We hope to get to know everybody much better over the course of the coming week.
Photos: Nils Laengner
Day 0: Checking in
It’s been a hot day in Taunus. Ninety riders have checked in to basecamp at The Eppstein Project, the start and finish location of Taunus Bikepacking. There were lots of familiar faces picking up their bags, caps and the all important GPS trackers from Follow My Challenge. The usual mix of anticipation, excitement and a little bit of nervousness lies in the air.
The sun is already beating down and people are making use of any available shadow. Some sorted out last minute mechanical issues, but the overall mood was pretty relaxed. This is probably helped by the high number of veterans who know very well what to expect.
While most people went to sleep early, a small group has been making use of the beer garden and still sat by the fire until dark. People are now sleeping all over the camp using bivy bags, tents or hammocks.
It’s an early alarm for most. After breakfast, Yannick Rathmann will be the first rider to start at 8 am, closely followed by the rest in one minute intervals, until it’s Ken Kölzer’s time to leave at 9.34 am. Just like last year, it’s an uphill start and then a continuous rollercoaster of up and down for a thousand kilometres. Make sure to follow these dots.
Photos: bite of me (Gosia Michalik) and Nils Laengner
Day 1: A reckless fox and the magic of the trail
While everybody was sleeping peacefully in camp the night before the start, a local fox became interested in the unfamiliar bunch of bikepackers and decided to investigate. What he found must have seemed like a buffet to the sly animal. The fox, who’s been known to steal shoes from the campsite at night, was not afraid to come up close and scored some sausages from one rider’s bags, was seen standing on the sleeping bag of another and even took a bite out of an emergency blanket.
Source: Marei Moldenhauer
After the sun had risen, riders gathered for a breakfast lovingly prepared by the campsite crew before the group photos and the start procedure.
Riders then set off in one minute intervals under the applause of the other camp guests and local supporters.
Speaking of local supporters, the inhabitants of Taunus have already impressed with loads of support and cheers for the riders and this year looks very much the same. Privately organized support is not allowed, but riders can accept anything that is equally available to all. The locals living along the track know that and just support everybody. This is the trail magic of Taunus. After only thirty kilometers in Kronberg, a family had prepared a colourful welcome, offered to fill up bottles and gave plenty of cheers. Water was especially valued today as just in time for the start, the temperatures were rising fast over 30 degrees. It’s a tradition, after all…
At the airfield in Michelbach-Aarbergen, the local baker and his mountainbiker friends set up a whole stand with drinks, sweet buns and even offered the airfield as a shelter opportunity, which many riders gladly accepted.
There were also difficult moments for some of the riders, of course.
Marco Störmer has mechanical issues and hopes to find a solution tomorrow. He looks to have found a room in Wiesbaden close to the track. Alex Becker‘s shoe is broken. He fixed it with tape and hopes to find a solution tomorrow when shops are open. Ross Anderson lost a sandal, though he still has the other one strapped to his saddlebag. Somebody else lost their bananas and cucumbers, but Verena Zimmer found and happily ate them. Georg Stiebeling crashed and bent his handlebar, but he keeps riding.
Joris Pesch was first to CP1, closely followed by Arne Große Hülschewiese, Julian Klose and Kristian Buljan. The four of them are still close together as night draws in.
At the time of writing, seven riders have had to abandon. This brings us to the daily scratch report.
- 40 Alexander Gleiß crashed hard in a downhill. He tried to push on, but was in pain and went to the hospital to get checked, where they found he has three broken ribs. It’s his birthday, so do send the man some good wishes.
- 42 Levent Cakir crashed twice, resulting in a swollen knee and a bruised elbow.
- 48 Stephan Trettin leaves the track due to a medical emergency at home.
- 53 Marcello Pabst’s knees and wrists are not agreeing with the demands of the course.
- 54 Jan-Dick den Das is not in the right mindset and struggling to focus, which is an equally good reason to scratch.
- 58 Kai Bette is “grilled” by the heat and his body simply says no.
- 74 Johannes Erbslöh suffers from back pain.
Photos: Nils Laengner and Małgorzata Michalik
Day 2: Forest fires, punctures galore and the race to CP2
After staying in close proximity for most of the night, the leading group rode into a new morning, riddled by punctures. Especially Kristian Buljan suffered a few. Kristian eventually ran out of spare tubes and limped to the bike shop in Nastätten by twisting his last tube into a knot, arriving two hours before opening hours. Luckily for him, the employees were already in the shop and Kristian managed to snag a few spare tubes and fresh sealant, enabling him to keep riding.
Source: Kristian Buljan
Georg Stiebeling also had two punctures and later lost the battery of his lupine front light on a gravel downhill. He bought a spare one that is definitely less powerful and might not last as long, but that’s better than nothing. Meanwhile, a back light was found in Mühlbachtal. This ride is not only hard on the riders, but also the material. Till Kramer lost his powerbank, Pascal Streng his airpods. Pascal eventually retraced his steps to retrieve the lost item. The experienced cyclist was quoted as saying that this is the hardest thing he ever did on a bike. Let’s hope he can make it to the finish. Isabel Riffel also had to turn around after forgetting her phone in a bakery. Olaf Flechtner slept in the very same shelter as the two previous years, this time sharing it with two other riders. Another victim of multiple punctures was Miriam Hamscher. Thomas Kollrepp suffered with cramps that only ended when he lowered his saddle. Many riders were struggling to get solid food down due to the heat and some switched to a liquid diet.
While the pointy end was travelling through the spectacular Upper Middle Rhine valley and towards CP2, the bulk of the riders were ticking off CP1 over the course of the day. Social media is filled with photos of this important milestone.
Source: Anne De Smet
Source: Bernd Schall
Michael Jacob had to steal his own bike after the lock failed to open.
The bakery in Singhofen turned out to be a very popular resupply spot. The employees love it.
In the afternoon, both media teams and Joris Pesch had a close race to CP2. Gosia and Jesko won it by just a matter of minutes. Joris was closely followed by Kristian Buljan. At the time of writing, these two are the first two riders to reach the Lahn valley.
Tomorrow morning the leaders might already be closing in to the eastern half of the track, where forest fires were reported. The organizers are in contact with local authorities, monitoring the situation closely and are ready to take necessary steps if the situation doesn’t improve in time.
Before we get to the scratch report, let’s close the day with the words of Beatrice Weglartz describing the route: “So beautiful, but so hard, but so so beautiful.”
DNFs:
- 24 Katleen Veelaert was struggling with the heat.
- 87 Stefan Draisbach underestimated the mental battles of his first bikepacking adventure.
- 88 Oliver Weber felt unsafe on the gravel descent with his narrow tires and cantilever brakes
- 13 Marc Schnitzius had a tight time schedule and cannot break himself before the next important event in three weeks time
Photos: Małgorzata Michalik
Day 3: A goat’s dream and the search for water
After two incredibly hot days, the temperatures are finally starting to go down a little, but the afternoons are still so hot that riders are using every opportunity to cool down and stay hydrated.
The media team witnessed some almost heartbreaking scenes in the remote village of Presberg. The climbs around here are particularly demanding and there are not many shops or water sources. The village shops close for the afternoon and so if you are unlucky with your timing, one can easily run out of water around here. A steady stream of riders arrived in town, having tackled the long climb from the valley below, desperately looking for a water source. What followed was a rollercoaster of emotions as they saw a fountain, only to realize that the water is not clean. This didn’t stop Moritz Hoffman from drinking it, but most others refrained after taking a taste test, even though the locals insisted that it’s fine. Riders would then check their route notes and their faces would light up with hope when they realized there is a cemetery just up ahead – in Germany, typically with an accessible tap, so a relatively safe water source. But this one was dry and so the riders had no choice but to descend into Wispertal, do the hard climb to Ransel, where – you guessed it – the grocery shop was closed as well – then down through the demanding Sauerthal trail section, until they could finally quench their thirst at the oasis of a supermarket in Lorch.
The slopes of the river Rhein, which forms the scenic backdrop of the route section most of the field was passing through all day, are exposed to the sun, which doesn’t help if you’re out of water.
Isabel Riffel woke up on a deflated mat, applied a patch and hopes the fix will last. Carolin Goecke had the same fate and instead of patching, got creative by glueing some insulation layers bought in a hardware store to the mat. It holds for now! Till Kramer’s phone broke. It cost him three hours, but Till managed to buy a new phone, make a new email address, get the route files back and keeps on riding, proving that the will to continue and talent for improvisation is key in these rides. Another prime example of this is Mareike Sanner. The navigation device froze, so she had to navigate with the phone, which drains a lot of battery and thus calls for regular charging stops. Mareike found an outdoor power socket and used the opportunity to get everything charged up while having dinner and listening to the life story of a local Rauenthal woman. Efficient time management is not to be underestimated.
Another rider that is facing lots of mechanical issues is Finnish rider Antti Lihavainen. After all the abuse he gave his bike lately, we hope it gets some TLC at a bike shop and Antti gets to continue his ride.
Source: Antti Lihavainen
The Taunus hills are brimming with wildlife. Till Falke managed to snap a shot while riding.
Source: Till Falke
The day before, after yet more punctures and having switched from tubeless to riding with tubes, Miriam Hamscher planned to take a hotel room in Bad Schwalbach, but there were no free rooms available, so she switched plans to bivying on a playground in the cold valley of Fischbach. Luck had it that she ran into the party of the local tractor appreciation group where she was offered cold beer and a warm sleeping spot. Also, wifi. Fischbach is becoming more and more known for its hospitality. The remote village has no phone reception, but USB charging sockets and one of the Dorfautomaten vending machines that riders appreciate so much. Later today she was seen having a little pizza party with other riders at the Rhein river banks.
*Source: Miriam Hamscher *
Levi Schmidt is the youngest rider in the field. He says that he has some problems with the heat, but the way he rides says something else. Apparently, Levi’s secret weapons to getting up the hills is blasting Rihanna on the headphones.
Andreas Hölderle is way ahead of his daily 100 kilometer goal and in a good mood. Last year he had to scratch, but this year he is “not even last”, as he says with a smile.
That honour goes to Matthias Rieckert, the self-titled broom wagon. Matthias has almost no bags on his bike, but chooses to travel with a nine kilo backpack instead, containing knifes and kitchen equipment amongst other things. He put up his hammock in Fischbach, bought a steak from the village’s vending machine and cooked himself a steak dinner. Yes, there is steak in these vending machines.
Meanwhile at the front of the pack, there is some leapfrogging going on. Joris Pesch had slept in Lahn valley and Kristian pushed through to take the lead, both closely followed by Georg Stiebeling, Stefan Maertens, Julian Klose and Arne Große Hülschewiese. Kristian was leading for most of the day, but had multiple punctures and suffers from stomach cramps. He also needs regular power naps at this point, which is more than understandable. He says ice cream works for well for him. We hope he gets salts in as well. The salt crust on his jersey is any goat’s dream.
It will be very interesting to see which of the six riders at the front paced it best and has the most reserves. Of course, luck or rather the absence of bad luck always plays a big part as well.
We only have to report one scratch for day three. Michael Fitzner is fine and enjoying himself but stops for private reasons.
And that’s it for today. Make sure to follow these dots and check the rider’s updates on social media for some great entertainment.
Photos: bite.of.me / Nils Laengner
Day 4: Podium pizza party
Kristian Buljan is the first rider to make it back to basecamp.
The Croatian rider living in Frankfurt rode 3 days, 6 hours and 40 minutes to complete the loop. It was a case of unfinished business for Kristian, who had to abandon last year after crashing into a deer and ending up in hospital. After intense days of constantly leapfrogging each other at the front of the field, about six riders stayed in contention until the final night. Kristian finally managed to break away and kept his lead. He got through the last night with short power naps to arrive first. Kristian was closely followed by Georg Stiebeling and Joris Pesch, who were both never far behind. All three riders had their share of problems to deal with during the ride. Crashes, series of punctures and lost equipment didn’t stop them. Joris still punctured in the long descent from Feldberg, but held on to third position.
Stefan Maertens and Julian Klose actually shared a shelter on their last night out on the course. Stefan got up first, leaving Julian to chase him. Arne Große Hülsewiesche somehow snuck in between them. After his rear derailleur stopped working, Arne finished the last eighty kilometers, including the highest peak of the route, on his two remaining gears.
The riders gathered at base camp for an inpromptu pizza party and a few beers until eyes were starting to fall shut.
Today’s scratch report is a long one:
- Levi Schmidt, knee pain
- Jörg Handeck, neck pain
- Malte Burdinski, saddlesores
- Johannes Bosch and Caroline Goecke, numb fingers
- Jennifer Dinnebier, exhaustion
- Felix Schön, stomach issues
- Markus Recker, sleep deprivation and problems with eyesight
- Verena Zimmer reports “a happy scratch, not a sad one”
Photos: bite.of.me
Day 5: Over the top
Marei Moldenhauer put in an impressively consistent ride. She slept five hours each night, just a little bit less in the last. Cemeteries were her bivy spots of choice. On Marei’s last day out on the track, she had some issues with the power management of her dynamo set-up, so in order to keep the navigation device alive she had to push hard on the flatter parts of the long climb up to Großer Feldberg. It took her only 4 days, 4 hours and 58 minutes to complete the gruelling 1,000 kilometer course with close to 20,000 meters of climbing. Asked how she liked it, Marei replied that she enjoyed every minute of her journey through Taunus, and that she feels she was always at the right place, at the right time.
Just a few hours behind was Isabel Riffel, who used the last light of the day to crest the iconic summit, finishing shortly after in the dark. After issues with her sleeping mat deflating and breaking her headphones, Isabel was singing loudly to keep herself entertained on the final stretch of her ride. She was welcomed at the finish line by friends and family.
Scratch report:
- Christian Dilger, physical exhaustion
- Philipp Altschuck, mechanical
- Christoph Erbslöh, mechanical
- Matthias Münzner, too many mechanicals, oncoming cold
- Katharina Nippgen, knee pain
Photos: Nils Laengner
Day 6: Finish line frenzy
On the sixth day of Taunus Bikepacking, the finish line has been busier than ever. Riders kept coming in throughout the whole night and day, including Sylvia Pietruska as the third woman to complete the loop.
Barry McWilliams was so disconnected from daily life during the ride that he forgot which day it was. Barry was quoted as saying that he might have been slower than last year, but enjoyed it more. Little did he know that he was actually a full day faster, giving him more than enough time to unwind and recover before the finisher party.
Ross Anderson started with a pair of sandals strapped to his saddle bag. He lost one of the two early on and carried the other one for the whole thousand kilometers in hopes of somehow bringing them back together.
Antti Lihavainen has a new nickname. “Fast walker”, as coined by Larin McPeak, doesn’t have a suitable gear ratio for the steep climbs of Taunus. He gets off his bike to push a lot, but that doesn’t slow him down much, because he walks so fast. Antti had plenty of mechanical problems, too. Having ridden to the start line from his home country of Finland, he had already worn his bike out before the start. When he reached Geisenheim, his last hope was the local bike shop, which initally turned him away for a lack of resources. Antti tried to fix his bike himself in front of the bike shop, which attracted the owner’s attention, who eventually took pity on him and decided to help out after all. We met Antti in Schmitten where he enjoyed some canned fish with lemonade. It’s a glamorous life.
Martin Schneider crashed yesterday. He took a good night sleep in Bad Camberg to try and recover and was reported as saying that walking hurts, but cycling doesn’t. Luckily it’s a cycling event with very little walking involved.
Bernd Schall had an unwanted visitor in his shelter. A sly fox (maybe the same one causing mischief before the start?) entered his shelter and stole Bernd’s honey waffles. It’s not only the local economy that benefits from hungry bikepackers, but also the wildlife.
The scratch report of day six only includes three names:
- Röttger Schiffels, wrist pain, cannot properly shift and brake
- Pascal Streng, numb right hand, both feet as well
- Thomas Dinnebier, unconfirmed
Photos: Nils Laengner and bite.of.me